Search found 28 matches
- Mon Jan 27, 2020 8:40 pm
- Forum: Modifications
- Topic: Larger print volume and heated enclosure
- Replies: 0
- Views: 17304
Larger print volume and heated enclosure
I modified my M2 about 6 years ago to have a 12.17" x 9.75 build area with a closed-loop feedback build volume. I think the z height is increased too. I got this almost to the finish line then ran out of gas. I tested it using a hairdryer for a heat source and it worked except the Y-axis was missing...
- Fri Jan 01, 2016 12:30 am
- Forum: Software
- Topic: How to home to a level below the z limit switch?
- Replies: 3
- Views: 8019
Re: How to home to a level below the z limit switch?
Thanks for the feedback, guys. The Makergear forum group is one of the best I've seen.
- Wed Dec 30, 2015 10:21 pm
- Forum: Software
- Topic: How to home to a level below the z limit switch?
- Replies: 3
- Views: 8019
How to home to a level below the z limit switch?
I have an actuator on my printer that flips the z home switch down using the x axis movement. The nozzle is about 7mm lower than the trip point of the z home switch. I've tried a bunch of script commands in simplify 3D to try to set the z offset 7.9 mm below the position where the home switch trippe...
- Sun May 11, 2014 10:37 pm
- Forum: General Discussion
- Topic: Software to include with the M2?
- Replies: 31
- Views: 42965
Re: Software to include with the M2?
The biggest problem I had when I first started with the Lulzbot TAZ was figuring out how to install Pronterface and Sli3er and getting the initial settings in Sli3er correct. IMO, they could have saved everyone a LOT of headaches by just doing the following: 1. Include a DVD that walks you through t...
- Sun May 11, 2014 10:19 pm
- Forum: How-to/Guides/Tips
- Topic: Converting the 12VDC M2 bed heater to work with 24VDC
- Replies: 2
- Views: 7815
Re: Converting the 12VDC M2 bed heater to work with 24VDC
I = V/R so higher ohms means lower current means slower heating. You have to make sure that your power supply can handle whatever resistance you connect it to.
- Tue Apr 29, 2014 2:04 am
- Forum: How-to/Guides/Tips
- Topic: Need help with Curtis's Firmware that supports VIKI
- Replies: 22
- Views: 32871
Re: Need help with Curtis's Firmware that supports VIKI
Maybe a wiring issue, as you said above? Did you try checking wire continuity on all the wires you can reach? I checked the wires and made sure everything was plugged in correctly. It worked for a while then started blinking again. I didn't change or even move anything and when I turned it on tonig...
- Tue Apr 22, 2014 9:30 pm
- Forum: Modifications
- Topic: My enclosure
- Replies: 24
- Views: 48047
Re: My enclosure
I had to order a FDM part made from Ultem 9085 today. It has a glass transition temp of 186C. That's probably where Jin saw temps that high for Stratasys machines. I think an enclosure at any higher than ambient and steady temperature should help. Hopefully I'll be able to figure out a lot more deta...
- Sat Apr 19, 2014 7:27 pm
- Forum: General Discussion
- Topic: PLA curling up from bed
- Replies: 42
- Views: 55252
Re: PLA curling up from bed
You can add tabs on the corners of your part model that are around 1/2" to 1" diameter and 5 layers thick. That will also help hold the corners down and you can easily trim them off when the part is finished. Some geometries are harder to hold down than others.
- Sat Apr 19, 2014 7:23 pm
- Forum: Modifications
- Topic: My enclosure
- Replies: 24
- Views: 48047
Re: My enclosure
Googling around, I find claims that Stratasys machines run their enclosures at 50C. I don't think you want to actually reach the glass transition temperature, and 50C should be suitable to reduce warping in large prints. I think Jim was the one who found that they run at 70-90C. Would you mind post...
- Sat Apr 19, 2014 4:53 pm
- Forum: How-to/Guides/Tips
- Topic: Need help with Curtis's Firmware that supports VIKI
- Replies: 22
- Views: 32871
Re: Need help with Curtis's Firmware that supports VIKI
When I unplugged the entire bottom connector of the VIKI the flashing stopped and everything is still controllable. I guess that means the bottom connector is related to the SD card?
I'll try plugging the bottom connector back in then unplugging EXT2 20 and see what happens.
I'll try plugging the bottom connector back in then unplugging EXT2 20 and see what happens.