Mic 6 tooling plate

[jimc]

i just dont see the advantage to having the heater direct to the plate. other than having slightly less alum to heat up its a disadvantage or a pia in every way. imagine having the boro glass permanently mounted to the m2 and how difficult that would be to deal with.

[insta]

A faster thermal transfer and less moving mass, really. The boro permanently on the M2 wouldnt' be a problem, if the boro was as strong as a slab of aluminum. I release parts by nipping corners, rather than chiseling.

[PcS]

Removable plates are the way to go without a doubt jimc. Much easier after I read and thought about it. But as insta said less mass and a lot faster heat transfer. I think my next mission for my m2 with be to get a 1/8 inch flat plate and bond the bed heater to it and redesign the corner mount to maybe a thumb screw or quarter turn quick release bolt. If I can make the bed heater unpluggable like insta suggested it should be the best of both worlds. My bed doesn't really heat terribly slowly but I am always waiting on it to get to temp. Not sure how much faster it would heat but any improvement would be a welcomed one.

[Matt_Sharkey]

Insta, is your idea with the threaded m3 holes to get rid of the spider? can you put holes in the heater?

I print onto bare glass (no glue to wash ), so I think having a permanent aluminum plate with less total mass and lower thermal resistance is a huge win.

[PcS]

Holes should work through the heater as long as you can miss the grid of wires.

[Matt_Sharkey]

Holes should work through the heater as long as you can miss the grid of wires.

looking at some heaters online it looks like the wires are damn near continuous throughout. I don't know what they case is with the MG heater

Alternatively we could just cut all of the arms of the spider off (am I refering to the correct part) and just glue it to the bottom of the heater.

[insta]

I'm thinking something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-X-20cm-200W- ... 3f4b1b62b9

McMaster 92273A043 (washers)
McMaster 90179A148 (thumbscrews)
McMaster 86825K11 (mic6 plate)

http://www.amazon.com/super-strong-doub ... 374&sr=8-3 (adhesive tape)
scavenged sheet of cardboard from the shipping containers (cardboard)

This gives you an inch on either edge of the mat that doesn't touch the aluminum at all. Remove the rubber pads on the aluminum spider, use the FR4 washers to space the bed off the spider's husk, use the thumbscrews to hold the plate to the spider. Because there's no rubber pads anymore, you can probably claim more of the X axis, I know on the v4s I have almost an inch I'm not using off to the right side ... even more if you ride dirty and remove the Nylon bumpstop and trust your software max-endstop. Insulate the backside of the heater and aluminum plate using the adhesive tape and scavenged cardboard sheet for insulation, to help compensate for the "hot spot" in the middle where the heater pad is.

The thumbscrews will allow for easy removal, the wiring is long enough to give you room to put whatever connectors you want onto the harness, you gain potentially an extra inch of X axis, the bed heater is the same wattage, and it's maybe a hundred bucks total?

[Matt_Sharkey]

I think if we're going that route why not try to get rid of most of the spider and see if we can put the level screws into the MIC6, the only problem is going through the heater.

[innkeeper]

Why make it adjustable. Just go with automatic bed leveling and make the mount as solid as possible

[Matt_Sharkey]

Why make it adjustable. Just go with automatic bed leveling and make the mount as solid as possible

Well maybe at least some shims to get it kinda level, we cant have M2's swaggering around like drunk sailors.