esun petg

[rsilvers]

I have the stock M2 and print esun PetG Natural and Ruby Red at 250 and bed at 100. No glue or hair spray, just bare glass. It sticks strong and when cools comes off easily.

Maybe if they come out with solid colors I can stop using PLA, and then only print on bare glass.

[sprior]

Hey rsilvers! I've been using your M2 optimized profiles from Thingiverse and was wondering if you'd consider making an updated version which uses the new Simplify3D file format and maybe uses one profile with multiple materials and qualities instead of individual profiles for each. I started to compare the existing profiles but wasn't sure which settings were the secret sauce.

[rsilvers]

Yeah, I will do that.

I printed on bare glass with PETG at 90C and it stuck well.

[sprior]

My personal list of interesting materials for a profile is:
PLA
ABS
T-Glase
PETG
NinjaFlex
HIPS
CopperFill/BronzeFill

[BigBadBry]

for some reason I am getting a ton is stringies in my yellow PETG that eventually catch and build up on the nozzle. Its not fuzz, but rather long strings left when the head moves around the part. I lost an entire print earlier when the nozzle-clump finally dropped on to the print surface like big hard speed-bump (it jacked the head orientation and made a really slick birds nest for me). My default printing speed is 3200mm/min. I know in a post above, it was mentioned to make sure your below 60mm/min but I am guessing those units are wrong (else it would take a month to finish my print). What settings should I be tweaking for this?

[jimc]

those string must have been pretty bad. the strings are the real fine ones made by a rapid movement? or is it the small ones that stick up and make a rough surface on the infill? my normal print speed is 4000mm/min. i dont go over that really. i do bring it down to 3200 though if the print calls for it. im not running your hot end though either. petg makes those long micro fine strings but it should not be so bad its enough to collect into a clump like that. lets go about this another way..... can you zip your fff file and post it? ill give a look.

[BigBadBry]

Many thanks in advance...
Here is a shot of the current build, that just went haywire...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cs9kdqaxe6c56 ... s.jpg?dl=0

And here is the file

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xbr27yq6w6yyu ... ctory?dl=0



The room is very warm (85F maybe), I almost wonder if its just not getting enough cooling. its happening in the exact same place every time though, which makes me think its design related

[jimc]

ok i took a look at the file. what is going on there is the support. its dragging the extrusion all around because of the 1 layer gap between the support and the first layer of the print. support for pet sux. the stuff bonds together so well if you do use support it can be a pia to remove. if there is the standard 1 layer gap then it drags the filament around like that. its just like having the bed gap set way too big. something to try is get rid of the dense support layers. you dont want that with pet because youll never remove it. set your infill to maybe 30%, remove the 1 layer separation gap. at 30% it shouldnt be too hard to remove. another thing to try is lower the layer height to .15. this will print that first layer .05mm closer to the support. have you done any calibration. if you are underextruding then the extrusion wont be thick enough to contact the support enough then it will break apart. when i measure my filament and set it correctly then my multiplier is .99-1.01. underextrusion will also show up as infill problems. it will be broken. not to do with your problem but for your infill settings, set the infill extrusion width to 140%, overlap to 25%. ok first thing i would start with is calibration. i have a feeling your underextruding. if that doesnt work move on to my other recommendations.

[BigBadBry]

What your saying makes perfect sense, and explains why the first layer that drops on structural supports always looks like a course basket weave. I updated the gaps based on your suggestions and the print ran through without any trouble at all. Clean-up, as you promised, was absolutely miserable, lol. Hats okay though, Im pretty stoked the parts are back to printing. I never had this trouble with Blue, Interesting that color-additives could affect things like this.

[rsilvers]

ABS, XT, and PETG.

XT and PETG printed at the same settings. I can't say for certain the XT is any better than PETG. It would take a lot of testing to be sure. One would have to find the optimal temperature for each and then make sure to extrude the same amount of each by weight into a part an then use proper equipment to compare them.