MakerGear Forum

i used to use the 618 but they have this new one out called bridge so i got a roll of that instead. supposed to warp less and stick better. just wanted to see if anyone had any feedback on it yet? its a little more clear than 618. im anxious to give it a go.

Yes I've been using it and I love the material. Been making parts for a laser cutter build. Printing on glass with glue stick. Start the bed and 70 for first layer and then 95 for other layers (same as I do for ABS). Be sure to print with a large brim.
Nozzle temp at 245 (with V3b).

Not had any jams at all. Be sure that the idler is not set too tight ( it's pretty hard stuff) and watch as it comes off the spool it's very springy!

Scott

Awesome scott thanks !

Does Nylon work OK with the M2?

Keeping moisture out of Nylon and Polycarb is a task.
How do you keep the moisture out ....do you have a dehydrator?

Nylon does work fine on the m2. Polycarb doesnt. It generally warps far worse than abs though. You get yourself a piece of garolite to print in and it helps. When you get a new roll you put it in the oven for a few hrs to dry it out.

I tried Nylon Bridge for the first time tonight in my M2 using the settings above. Things started out quite well, but after about 10mm of printing the nylon got stuck in the feed tube so tight I had to use pliers to get it out. Do I need to swap out the "Bowden" tube for something different? The other thing to note was when the spool arrived the dessicant packet was smashed and made a mess in the box. It's possible that a grain of it got lodged in the tube.

did you put a set of calipers on the filament to see how consistent the extrusion is? i am wondering if there was a bulge in it that caused the jam.

Good suggestion, just measured 1.85 to 1.9mm near the problem. I thought Talman was good stuff, has anyone else had this problem?

you know taulman does make very good specialty filaments but they seem to suffer from inconsistent extrusion. t-glase has a bunch of issues with it. i had no problems with the 618. i have not tried my roll of bridge here. 1.9 is about the limit and seems like about were binding starts to happen.

Since we're talking about measuring, I've got a digital caliper which seems to measure in increments of 0.05mm. I've seen an analog dial caliper on Amazon which claims 0.02mm for about $50. My current caliper was purchased for woodworking and is totally fine for that purpose - do I need something better for 3D printing use?