MakerGear Forum

Gaaaah, ABS Juice on Glass keeps doing this to me' probably 1 out of 3 prints. Sometimes when it breaks free it actually tears a chuck out of my glass, which makes me even more aggrivated!.

Aside from ABS juice (acetone and filament) directly on glass; is there another setup you guys have had good luck with when printing ABS parts that have broad contact surfaces on glass? The bed temp is 110, nozzle 150 and I'm using Makergear Black filament.

I like to use Purple Elmers glue stick when printing ABS, it holds great and the parts release all by themselves once the bed cools.

-Steve

I question the 150 for ABS, are you sure its not 250? The second day I had my M2 I installed a PEI material on the bed. All it needs is the correct temperature printing and then cooling, comes off with just a little use of this > http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001V9 ... ge_o09_s00
BTW try some black eSun PETG you will never print ABS again.... maybe.

are you waiting for the glass to cool before trying to remove the print?

wmgeorge wrote:I question the 150 for ABS, are you sure its not 250? The second day I had my M2 I installed a PEI material on the bed. All it needs is the correct temperature printing and then cooling, comes off with just a little use of this > http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001V9 ... ge_o09_s00
BTW try some black eSun PETG you will never print ABS again.... maybe.

Whoops - yes its 250, misprint on my part. IL give the PEI a go, I used to work with PETG but had alot of trouble on larger parts, ABS prints beautifully, if I can just get it to not break my damn glass all the time. I saw a video the other day where someone had a flexible panel what they would remove once the print was done and simple twist (like an ice tray). Wish I could remember the name.

innkeeper wrote:are you waiting for the glass to cool before trying to remove the print?

Yep - In fact tonight I had two parts which separated themselves and took huge chunks of glass along with them. They ruined the plate completely. It set probably 2 hours and was easily room temperature by the time it fractured free.

sthone wrote:I like to use Purple Elmers glue stick when printing ABS, it holds great and the parts release all by themselves once the bed cools.

-Steve

I seem to remember trying this, and also hairspray and while back and while it worked really well for PLA, ABS never seemed to stick to it. Maybe i give it another go.

zebra plate u can twist it but is not 100% flat is perfect if ur piece are 10x10 or smaller but if u try to do something with base 20x15 u will have trouble trying to calibrate it

the pic i am using as my profile pic is the result of trying to use zebra plate with ABS.
in short... don't do it. Zebra plate is good for other materials, jsut not ABS

i've been hearing good things about PEI but haven't tried it yet myself, probably my next purchase.

I've had things stick well with ABS juice on glass but not to the point id break the print or glass.

i'm a big fan of kapton tape for ABS, just keep it clean between prints with some acetone and it seems to work well for me.

Had that happen too, now I'm using Kapton tape with hairspray. (I rarely have to reapply the hairspray.) If I wait for it to cool, ABS usually slides right off; I don't even have to scrape. PLA and PETg often take some convincing -- but worst case scenario, I tear the tape and have to reapply -- much cheaper and faster than waiting for new glass! Using the soap bubble & credit card application method, putting the tape on is pretty easy.