How To: Take Apart the V4 Hot End for Cold Cleaning
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 5:04 am
Know this is a repost, but danged if I can find it...it's buried somewhere in another discussion.
I've done the cold clean three times now, and so far, it's worked without having to resort to the torch.
First some don'ts:
1. Don't try to remove the screw-off nozzle while the hot-end is still in the seat. The neck of the hot-end is thin and can break if it is twisted.
2. Don't stick anything into the nozzle end to clean it while it is cold.
3. If you choose to poke a wire up into the nozzle to try to clear a clog while the nozzle is heated, use a short section of E-string (guitar) on the 0.35 mm nozzle, and a B-string on the 0.5 mm nozzle. (Not exactly recommended as the greatest method, but we're all guilty.
) Don't burn yourself, it ain't pleasant.
1. Heat the nozzle up and retract the filament completely.
2. Cut the power to the machine and let things cool down.
3. Disconnect the hot-end extruder wires and thermistor wire at the connectors near the motors.
4. Swing the fan up out of the way. Loosen the screw that holds the hot-end in place on the hot end mount under the fan assembly. Allow the cooled hot-end to drop down into your hand.
5. Remove the black cloth cover.
6. Use two wrenches (adjustable and flat, or two adjustable wrenches) to just loosen the nozzle from the hot block. Grab the block near the nozzle, not near the neck. Do not twist the nozzle completely off, just loosen it so you can turn it by hand.
7. Gently twist the nozzle off by hand, back and forth to break the filament seal in the barrel, and pulling out away from the barrel to stretch the filament inside. Ideally, you want to loosen the filament in the barrel and pull it out in a long tube. It cleans the barrel (not necessary, but nice) and gives you a handle to work with for the nozzle cleaning.
8. Firmly grasp the tail of the filament with a pair of needle nose pliers and gently roll it towards the side to pull the plug up out of the nozzle. Rock it a bit back and forth on all four sides to break the seal if you can. (Feel free to use your thumbs in the process, mine is holding the pliers in place so i can hold the camera in the other hand! ROFL!)
9. When the filament plug lets go, it will pull out little bits of carbon that have been baked onto the nozzle. (Black specs in the plug.)
10. Once you have removed the plug, hold the nozzle up to a light and see if you can see clear through the hole. If you can, great, put the nozzle back on, the clog is cleared.
11. If you break the plastic off in the nozzle, (no handle to grab), you can still use one of the other methods to clear the clog. (Propane torch, or solvents to dissolve the plastic over several hours.)
Or you might decide you want to clean off any carbonization inside the nozzle if there is heavy buildup.
PLA: solvent is any paint stripper containing methylene choride
ABS: acetone should work (unless it eats brass, and i have no idea if it does, so take that as flexible until someone who knows corrects me)
PETG: buy another nozzle or use a torch
Flex: No earthly idea. Since it's partially rubber, i would try freezing it out.
Anyway, it's always a good idea to have at least one spare nozzle on hand, so you can continue what you were doing while your clogged nozzle soaks.![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_e_wink.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
I've done the cold clean three times now, and so far, it's worked without having to resort to the torch.
First some don'ts:
1. Don't try to remove the screw-off nozzle while the hot-end is still in the seat. The neck of the hot-end is thin and can break if it is twisted.
2. Don't stick anything into the nozzle end to clean it while it is cold.
3. If you choose to poke a wire up into the nozzle to try to clear a clog while the nozzle is heated, use a short section of E-string (guitar) on the 0.35 mm nozzle, and a B-string on the 0.5 mm nozzle. (Not exactly recommended as the greatest method, but we're all guilty.
![Rolling Eyes :roll:](./images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif)
![Shocked :shock:](./images/smilies/icon_eek.gif)
1. Heat the nozzle up and retract the filament completely.
2. Cut the power to the machine and let things cool down.
3. Disconnect the hot-end extruder wires and thermistor wire at the connectors near the motors.
4. Swing the fan up out of the way. Loosen the screw that holds the hot-end in place on the hot end mount under the fan assembly. Allow the cooled hot-end to drop down into your hand.
5. Remove the black cloth cover.
6. Use two wrenches (adjustable and flat, or two adjustable wrenches) to just loosen the nozzle from the hot block. Grab the block near the nozzle, not near the neck. Do not twist the nozzle completely off, just loosen it so you can turn it by hand.
7. Gently twist the nozzle off by hand, back and forth to break the filament seal in the barrel, and pulling out away from the barrel to stretch the filament inside. Ideally, you want to loosen the filament in the barrel and pull it out in a long tube. It cleans the barrel (not necessary, but nice) and gives you a handle to work with for the nozzle cleaning.
8. Firmly grasp the tail of the filament with a pair of needle nose pliers and gently roll it towards the side to pull the plug up out of the nozzle. Rock it a bit back and forth on all four sides to break the seal if you can. (Feel free to use your thumbs in the process, mine is holding the pliers in place so i can hold the camera in the other hand! ROFL!)
9. When the filament plug lets go, it will pull out little bits of carbon that have been baked onto the nozzle. (Black specs in the plug.)
10. Once you have removed the plug, hold the nozzle up to a light and see if you can see clear through the hole. If you can, great, put the nozzle back on, the clog is cleared.
11. If you break the plastic off in the nozzle, (no handle to grab), you can still use one of the other methods to clear the clog. (Propane torch, or solvents to dissolve the plastic over several hours.)
Or you might decide you want to clean off any carbonization inside the nozzle if there is heavy buildup.
PLA: solvent is any paint stripper containing methylene choride
ABS: acetone should work (unless it eats brass, and i have no idea if it does, so take that as flexible until someone who knows corrects me)
PETG: buy another nozzle or use a torch
Flex: No earthly idea. Since it's partially rubber, i would try freezing it out.
Anyway, it's always a good idea to have at least one spare nozzle on hand, so you can continue what you were doing while your clogged nozzle soaks.
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_e_wink.gif)