If all else fails get Netfabb, slice it up, print it in separate pieces, then glue it together afterwards.
Here's preview if you haven't heard of Netfabb https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5j5cXgybCk
-Steve
help through my first ABS print . POWDERED TOAST MAN!
Re: help through my first ABS print . POWDERED TOAST MAN!
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See my projects at https://www.theneverendingprojectslist.com
See my projects at https://www.theneverendingprojectslist.com
Re: help through my first ABS print . POWDERED TOAST MAN!
busy at work this week. i'll post an update this weekend. i just read up on the thread...
capt john you're my hero! i cant wait to try these settings, you also enlightened me a TON about rafts, manual rafts (didn't know about that at all) cant wait to try out the suggestions. super appreciative, thanks gang.
capt john you're my hero! i cant wait to try these settings, you also enlightened me a TON about rafts, manual rafts (didn't know about that at all) cant wait to try out the suggestions. super appreciative, thanks gang.
- Capt. John
- Posts: 271
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:48 pm
- Location: Manistee, MI
- Contact:
Re: help through my first ABS print . POWDERED TOAST MAN!
I'm pretty new to 3D printing, but what I know ...I know well, having printed out over 100 of parts in ABS.
Any skill level I have at all is due to members here that put me on the straight and narrow.
If any of you have a problem, the membership here is golden to fix it.
It's a tricky pull of the mouse to add manual supports. I had to do it when I was in
the prototyping stage of my new and now patented spoons that I owe to jimc's gifted ability to read
my mind and come up with almost instant revisions!
By printing without a raft, your model on the bottom side should have a nice finished look like this:
When you go to print the toast heads, click the model a box will open in S3D where you
can lay models at any angle you want. Just play a little bit to figure out the x,y and z axis configurations.
When you're done printing, take the glass bed and let it cool. Parts will loosen and sometimes fly
off the glass as ABS cools. Do not try to remove, let the shrinkage of ABS do that job for you.
If your model don't fly up, you'll hear some creaks and the bond breaks from the Aquanet unscented hair spray in a spray can.
If you decide to use the Aquanet, spray a bunch on and let the bed heat it and dry the hair spray for you. It takes a long
time to get to 110C. The hair spray will be plenty dry when the machine shifts into the print mode.
I just learned how to print from an SD card and you should too, if you''re going to print out the entire toastman.
Cut it up if possible, the toastman build looks several hours long. Personally, I do not have the confidence to
print out anything much over 2 hours. Too much can go wrong and waste a lot of printer time and filament.
Mr. Toastman is probably better suited to PLA. ABS warping is a constant issue. If you do attempt your model
in ABS again build an enclosure around the printer to keep the ABS at least warm in a warm room.
Please consider PET+ and you'll be happy you did.
Any skill level I have at all is due to members here that put me on the straight and narrow.
If any of you have a problem, the membership here is golden to fix it.
It's a tricky pull of the mouse to add manual supports. I had to do it when I was in
the prototyping stage of my new and now patented spoons that I owe to jimc's gifted ability to read
my mind and come up with almost instant revisions!
By printing without a raft, your model on the bottom side should have a nice finished look like this:
When you go to print the toast heads, click the model a box will open in S3D where you
can lay models at any angle you want. Just play a little bit to figure out the x,y and z axis configurations.
When you're done printing, take the glass bed and let it cool. Parts will loosen and sometimes fly
off the glass as ABS cools. Do not try to remove, let the shrinkage of ABS do that job for you.
If your model don't fly up, you'll hear some creaks and the bond breaks from the Aquanet unscented hair spray in a spray can.
If you decide to use the Aquanet, spray a bunch on and let the bed heat it and dry the hair spray for you. It takes a long
time to get to 110C. The hair spray will be plenty dry when the machine shifts into the print mode.
I just learned how to print from an SD card and you should too, if you''re going to print out the entire toastman.
Cut it up if possible, the toastman build looks several hours long. Personally, I do not have the confidence to
print out anything much over 2 hours. Too much can go wrong and waste a lot of printer time and filament.
Mr. Toastman is probably better suited to PLA. ABS warping is a constant issue. If you do attempt your model
in ABS again build an enclosure around the printer to keep the ABS at least warm in a warm room.
Please consider PET+ and you'll be happy you did.
Capt. John
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com