MakerGear Forum

Does anybody know what the industry type is for the power and mosfet connectors on the rambo board so I can order the right ones?
The bed heater voltage positive pin housing on female connector has melted and causing intermittent bed heater voltage and I need a new female connector. The one that goes on the power supply wires.

tj

9alfred99 wrote:a new female connector

Recommendation: don't replace the platform heater connector with the same thing, because it'll melt again. Those connectors really aren't up to the task.

You can remove the connector, solder 12 AWG stranded wires to the PCB in its place, and attach Anderson Powerpoles to the wires; do it for the platform power input and output connectors. Powerpoles have better current-carrying capacity and better mechanical stability.

Or, better, use a DC-DC solid-state relay (*) to get the high current completely off the RAMBo board and out of those connectors. Remove the melted connector, solder small-gauge wires to the board, attach them to the SSR input, use heavy wires from the power supply and platform, add Powerpoles, and connect them to the SSR output.

https://softsolder.com/2013/10/11/maker ... hermistor/



(*) Under ten bucks on eBay or Amazon. You want the SSR40DD version: DC-to-DC (not DC-to-AC) control with 40 A output capacity. Be careful with Amazon, because you can get exactly the same SSR you can get from eBay, including slow-boat shipping halfway around the planet, at Amazon prices.

Actually, I am going to use one of the external MOSFETs like to upgrade an A8, which I have one of, and have a couple of extra MOSFET boards.
Just wanted a new connector to supply the bed power so its MOSFET can turn on the external and I hate intermittent burned parts. With the Rambo MOSFET just turning on the optocoupler on the external there is virtually no current. I was going to jumper one of the other 12v inputs to it.

Also, been reading CCI since #1.

tj

9alfred99 wrote:I hate intermittent burned parts

After you clear away the burned rubble, solder an ordinary wire across the bottom of the board from the other 12 V supply: still no need for a connector. As you say, not much current, so there's no need for a fat, hard-to-solder wire.

If you insist on connectorization, perhaps Makergear has some on a shelf. [grin]

reading CCI since #1

It's been a long, twisty journey …