MakerGear Forum

Posted: **Thu Jun 19, 2014 6:46 am**

Changed the filament drive, noticed the hot end moved pretty easy off vertical.

Went to snug the allen sets that hold it and discovered a cracked housing.
Could be part of the reason some of my prints had furrows/indents.

Temp fix is mechanic's wire while I print out a new one from Thingiverse.
First one I printed, ABS warped to severely. Went to PLA and hope this print comes out.

: Motor_mount.jpg (113.14 KiB) Viewed 20070 times

I know, this can't be the first time this happened.

Posted: **Thu Jun 19, 2014 2:34 pm**

PLA print came out perfect. ABS unless you can print it without supports, it's gonna be problematic
clearing the slots where the stay-ties slide thru.

Now, that I have the new mount installed, 1st check head space and print out a new spare is job 1.
Mounting screws on the mount to the slide/belt part were loose too.

Having a complete spare motor mount part for this on-hand is a wise move.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:354424 is the part.
Come with a spare sleeve for another motor, but the main part is good to go.

With this motor not being fully secured? ...I see the reason some of my prints didn't come out 100%.

Posted: **Thu Jun 19, 2014 10:38 pm**

john, all the plastic parts on the m2 are abs. you may have a problem with pla becuase of the heat from the bed. it might warp and flex on you. i have printed the mount a few times before with 80-100% infill with no issue. you should be able to pull it off by using either hairspray or abs glue on kapton.

Posted: **Sat Jun 21, 2014 12:29 am**

I printed a replacement mount with PET+ filament and so far, so good. I didn't want to take a chance on PLA, but the PET+ has performed fine on 1-6 hour prints.

Posted: **Sat Jun 21, 2014 3:53 pm**

jimc wrote:john, all the plastic parts on the m2 are abs. you may have a problem with pla because of the heat from the bed. it might warp and flex on you. i have printed the mount a few times before with 80-100% infill with no issue. you should be able to pull it off by using either hairspray or abs glue on kapton.

I want to second this. I had this happen to me and got the best advise: print with supports in 90 or 100% ABS. it's not too hard to clear out the supports, and I feel that PLA will become too soft and deform. Remember that your fan is blowing all the hot air directly at it, and the motor can get pretty hot too. I printed out 2 extras, just in case, and also because they came out so well.

Mark

Posted: **Mon Jun 23, 2014 5:37 am**

PLA doesn't work that good, had it loosen up twice, then the hot end clearance needs to be reset.
PLA is not how this part should be made. Never have any issues getting part to stick the glass build bed
since I went to Aquanet hair spray.

: Motor_housing2.jpg (151.87 KiB) Viewed 20013 times

Looked at the the factory piece, top layer-side-bottom is .046. Factory part weighs .6ths of an ounce.
Part I made was .9th of an once, so Makergear has a better recipe for parts that do not warp.

Photo shows the green PLA which I do not recommend. The ABS one I printed the holes deformed
and the whole piece warped badly. Also, there was a stress fracture in the wire holder. Stuck a
toothpick in it.

This part does not lend itself to injection molding. Injection molding tools do not like putting holes
in things and can only work by adding expensive hydraulic slides.

Generally, I have decent luck with ABS, but not in printing out this part.
My junky ABS part I printed out was at 240 and a bed temp of 110. Infill was 50%.
Might try to make this part out PET when time allows.

Red handle in the photo is a NOGA de-burring hole reamer, used in trimming plastic.
I feel my limited skill level is not that much help to others. NOGA trimmer/reamer
is my attempt to pay others back for getting me over the hump. These are not expensive
tools and can be found with a simple web search.

I know ...I have time left on my warranty and next move is to contact Makergear.
OK, had the bed wires break, now the motor housing cracked. No big deal, the
great rewards the M2 offers me in fast prototyping far out weighs a few issues.

Posted: **Mon Jun 23, 2014 9:05 pm**

Support is great, Josh looked at it.

Here's my emails to support, you might find something useful:

Josh (MakerGear)

Jun 23 15:58

Most of my production parts are printed at .15-.25mm; that specific part is some ancient gcode (February, 2013; from back before Clayton fixed the exported version number, even), at .2250 layer height. Infill 28%, 2 perimeters, three top and bottom layers. Everything else pretty standard.

Kingscharter

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jun 23 15:49

Josh, went with the stock S3D setting bed temp of 110.
Printed on glass with hair spray.

Extruder was 240 in my feeble attempt at making
this myself in ABS in an effort not to bother tech support.

What settings do you use with infill percentage?

Seen in the original part the layer setting was thicker
then I been printing with.

Thanks for looking at this,

John King
--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 6/23/14, Josh (MakerGear) <support@makergear.zendesk.com> wrote:

Subject: [MakerGear] Re: Broken motor mount
To: "Kingscharter" <kingscharter@yahoo.com>
Date: Monday, June 23, 2014, 10:48 AM

Josh (MakerGear)

Jun 23 10:48

John, what temperature did you have the bed at, for that ABS print? And what print surface? (I saw a few different surfaces in that forum post, so wanted to confirm with you)

For the actual part itself - please email Karen@makergear.com and request a replacement extruder motor mount; she'll need your original order number and current shipping address.

Kingscharter

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jun 23 10:25

Hello Support,

Top motor mount broke. My skill set with ABS which
I did try to print one out ...came out very warped.

Broken part can be seen at:

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=674&p=3024#p3024

Made a couple out of PLA and this is not the way to go.

Please help,

John King

Attachment(s)
Motor_housing2.jpg

Posted: **Mon Jun 23, 2014 9:20 pm**

I have had my motor mount crack in several places, but the thinner sides around the hole at the top of the clamp seem to be a good candidate for cracks. That's where my first crack appeared. Question: Why is that hole there, and wouldn't it be better just to get rid of it, since it appears to only serve to make the mount weaker at that spot?

I printed my replacement in PET+. It is claimed to be slightly stronger and more flexible than ABS. I assume that that translates to fewer cracks. So far, so good, but it really takes a year of printing to see how it holds up in the longer term.

Posted: **Tue Jun 24, 2014 12:45 am**

Big hole is there for access for the screw-allen driver, at least that's what I use it for.

Posted: **Tue Jun 24, 2014 1:16 am**

I must say that never occurred to me. I had no trouble getting to the screws from behind. The hole is only good for reaching one of the screws, anyway, and if that is the purpose of the hole, then it can be made much smaller. It's a plausible explanation, but I'm not entirely convinced. . .

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