noob to m2 needing help

[Kyle-312]

hi, i built my m2 a few days ago but have yet to actually been able to print anything yet. first off im using simplify3d for my software i can get the x and the z axis at zero and whenever i hit the home button the zip back to their zero setting. In y axis case i'll move the base over to the y end stop, hit zero then move it a few more spaces over and hit home and it goes full -300 so the motor thinks it has all this room but it stops and jerks. i hit the kill switch so parts dont get beat up but the zero for y axis has changed to -380 or so

secondly the z stop likes to be triggered by vibrating and movement on the rambo board. any suggestions as to the best way to prevent it?

and third- the pla filmanet that was provided when it was extruded gets twisted coming out and makes it looked screwed not a smooth piece of filament.

any help would be appreciated, would really like to start printing lol

-Kyle pollack

[Jules]

In Simplify 3D, are you using the correct profile for the M2, and not some other (larger) printer?
(And unfortunately, that's the only idea i have - you'll need the "boys-who-build" for anything else. )

[Kyle-312]

No simplify is set for the specific one I have. I emailed tech support. See what they think

[Jules]

Yeah, that's a good idea - or once the guys see your post they can help. (There's a few here that can probably diagnose that just from hearing about it.)

The corkscrewing filament? That's normal if you are extruding over open air - it depends on how fast you are extruding and whether there's a bit of sumpin' in the nozzle. It should corkscrew for a bit, then straighten out. Sometimes it wraps around and gets caught on the nozzle - no biggie, just pull the clump off with the tweezers.
(It does not do that when you are printing - the nozzle is going to be so close to the bed that the filament just lies down when it extrudes.)

[Tim]

In y axis case i'll move the base over to the y end stop, hit zero then move it a few more spaces over and hit home and it goes full -300 so the motor thinks it has all this room but it stops and jerks. i hit the kill switch so parts dont get beat up but the zero for y axis has changed to -380 or so

Actually you are not beating up the stepper motors in spite of the dreadful sound, so don't worry about that too much.

Use the "send" command in the S3D communications tab to learn what your machine thinks about the endstop switches. Command "M119" will return the state of the endstops. What you want to see is "X min = 0, Y min = 0, Z min = 0" (or something like that, that it's all zeros is the important thing) when none of the endstops are triggered. Then press down on each switch with your hand and repeat the "M119" command. When you press the X axis switch, it should report "X min = 1", and so forth. If any of these is backwards, then you need to turn the connector around at the endstop switch. If any is not responding at all, then there is a bad connection or something. . . check the connector at the RAMBo, then look at the switch with an ohm-meter.

I'm not quite sure what you mean by "full -300", though.

secondly the z stop likes to be triggered by vibrating and movement on the rambo board. any suggestions as to the best way to prevent it?

Make sure that the wires and connectors are tight. Sounds like something is loose. The endstops don't trigger by themselves. . . normally.

and third- the pla filmanet that was provided when it was extruded gets twisted coming out and makes it looked screwed not a smooth piece of filament.

This is fairly normal, although if it's really bad it may indicate some manufacturing defect or small obstruction in the nozzle. In the latter case, you can probably get rid of it by poking a wire into the hole. . . look around the forum for suggestions on cleaning nozzles. However, if it's just a bit kinked to one side coming out of the nozzle, that's pretty normal and will not affect the printing. PLA, in particular, should drop straight down, at least well enough that you don't have to clean off the nozzle after purging (running a length of filament through the nozzle). PETg filament, though, does have a tendency to want to stick to the nozzle. Sometimes you can encourage the filament to come down straight by grabbing it with a pair of tweezers as it comes out of the nozzle and giving it a little tension.

[Kyle-312]

Okay so talked with tech support and turns out the y axis power on the rambo was backwards. So bit of a derp moment and didnt catch it when i went through the plug ins so that part is working. Now thw more pressing issue is the z end stop. I did manage to get it to print a cube fine, With a bit of defects. Tried printing calibrating tests and somewhere during the print the z stop got triggered a few microns above the print bed. Came back a few min later to find the hot end digging into the print.

It seems that whe nthe light pops on for the z stop when its not 0 that tapping the metal rambo box will trigger it to turn off. Bit same to trigger on. So the printer jerking during the print will turn of the end stop. I did check the connections and they are as far in as the can be but definitely do move. Waiting to hear from tech support on that one.

Always seem to have bad luck on getting new technogly to work for me lol bought the xbox one first day and i was one of the 10 thousand people who got that disk reading issue.