First print-- issues with tallthin.g from the SD card...

[jsc]

Should the .15mm of retraction vertical lift and unchecking only retract when crossing open spaces be "default" settings for every print just to be safe? Or only used on prints where there are overhangs like this octopus?

You can leave it on, but it will increase print times and make your seams more visible. I generally leave it off unless I need it or think I'll need it.

Any recommendations on what I should print? I've printed a bunch of those sharks. I'm just trying to run the printer through it's paces. Mainly so I can learn and get a bunch of practice but also to make sure my M2 can do everything it should be able to do.

What did you dream of printing when you decided to get a 3D printer? Print those. For testing, I find I like both mechanical things and art models. The Stanford bunny (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3731) is a classic, as is Yoda. Fun to show people, especially if you finish it with some epoxy or primer.

Do you guys keep the binder clips that clip the glass to the bed/heat plate on at all times?

I use to run without clips at all, but that depends on how well your bed fits in the spider. Now I use these: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:602194

With glue use, how often would you say you remove the glass and clean it? When I remove a print from the bed, obviously you can see where the part sat. When I run my fingers over it I can feel a slight indent where the part was sitting in the glue. With the z stop/offset/bed level being so picky, it just seems to me that a build up of glue stick on the glass would throw things off easily, hence why I've been cleaning it every couple prints.

You almost never have to clean it. If you want, you can clean it in place with a wet paper towel. Perhaps I let mine go for too long, but "every few prints" is way too often.

[minusbacon]

You almost never have to clean it. If you want, you can clean it in place with a wet paper towel. Perhaps I let mine go for too long, but "every few prints" is way too often.

Never? Whenever I try to put glue stick over the glue that's already there, it gets uneven and gobs up in spots no matter how lightly I press. And I'm afraid for the gobs messing with printing.

Also, I can NEVER get a print off of the glue unless I remove the glass and put it in the freezer. I printed a piranha last night and I can't get it off the glass. Tips on removing prints without having to freeze the glass?

[Jules]

You almost never have to clean it. If you want, you can clean it in place with a wet paper towel. Perhaps I let mine go for too long, but "every few prints" is way too often.

Never? Whenever I try to put glue stick over the glue that's already there, it gets uneven and gobs up in spots no matter how lightly I press. And I'm afraid for the gobs messing with printing.

That's why i preferred to use hairspray. Much easier to get and keep an even coat.

Also, I can NEVER get a print off of the glue unless I remove the glass and put it in the freezer. I printed a piranha last night and I can't get it off the glass. Tips on removing prints without having to freeze the glass?

Nope. Freezing it off is the best way on glass with gluestick.

If you really don't want to have to use adhesive, you might have to consider one of the other kinds of plates. Just keep in mind - you will have to reset your Z-Endstop and Z-Offsets if you switch, and the temperatures are different when you use one.

There are several alternatives discussed in the Modifications section of the forum:

Some of the guys have tried the PEI surface and like it very well:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2296

Or there is the Zebra plate:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2482

[minusbacon]

I chose glue stick over hairspray due to being able to apply it more controlled. Hairspray mist seems harder to control and would easily get on parts you don't really want it on. *shrug*

Do you still use glue/hairspray with those other plates?

[Jules]

No, i use a Zebra plate.

[minusbacon]

Freezing wouldn't even get the piranha off the glass. I had to really work to get it off, breaking it's moveable tail and jaw in the process. I gotta find another way than glue stick. Do you guys have a method for hairspray that controls the mist?

I was reading the threads about the other plates. I'm not sure which to try. Neither of them sound like they're easy to get used to based on the print and material. Zebra seems like it requires some maintenance. PEI sounds like a pain to apply. I've always hated applying the sticker screen protectors to phones. Sound just as much of a pain as that.

[minusbacon]

No, i use a Zebra plate.

I was reading that topic. Now that you've used it for a while, do you have to do anything to maintain it after prints? what settings do you typically use for PLA?

Anything I should know about using it before I order? I'm tempted.

[minusbacon]

What size do we use for the M2?

[Jules]

Now that you've used it for a while, do you have to do anything to maintain it after prints? what settings do you typically use for PLA?

Just read the little instruction sheet that comes with it. Like everything else, they start you on the low side and you are going to need to experiment to get the correct holding temps. There are a couple of videos on the site that show it in action, and of course you can read the results that we got on that thread. I haven't had to add anything to it so far.

[jsc]

You can get hairspray in pump bottles, apparently; I've never seen it in stores. Also, someone (I forget who) around here swears by diluted Elmer's white glue applied with a small roller.

For removing prints off of glass, you want to pry under the object with a very sharp implement. If you shave with a DE razor, you may wish to try this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:697672 ; but sometimes it's not long enough for really big prints. Take a look at this thread for an alternative: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1900. I went to town on a flexible joint knife with a sharpening stone and it works great.