Infill Width S3D 2.2.2

[Slipshine]

Guys I am working on a new profile for some filament. As usual I print my test cube. 1 perim. 2 bottom . Set the extrusion multiplier so that I get the single wall to match what I have in the extrusion width. (.52 in this case). I adjust the the z coordinate under G-code settings. My layer thickness is .150 for this profile.

At this point things are usually great. Buy I am having problems with my infill and the top and bottom layers on my infill.
I know the first layer settings can be adjusted and there are settings for the infill but haven't had to mess with these before. Usually if my calibration is correct the top and bottom infill is correct.

The infill measures .35 and the top and bottom layer seem to be about the same width the side walls are at .52 . Any Ideas how or why I would have to adjust this.

I include this pic to show the top layers and the infill.

any help is appreciated.

Test Block with top cut open.

test.jpg (91.82 KiB) Viewed 14328 times

[jsc]

0.52mm is extraordinarily wide for a .35mm nozzle. Are you using the standard nozzle?

Remember that perimeters get laid directly on top of each other (in vertical surfaces), while infill alternates direction, so only gets every other layer in the same direction. Each infill thread has a full layer width of space below it except where it crosses the previous layer, so it is natural that infill "walls" will be thinner than perimeters.

[Slipshine]

Not really to concerned about the infill but I put up the information in case it would help .

My real problem is with the top and bottom layers. (NOT the 1st Layer)

[jsc]

Oh. What's the problem with the bottom layer, and how is that different from the first layer?

Your top layer is what I would expect a single top layer to look like over sparse infill, with drooping and pinholes. That is what multiple top and bottom layers are for. In my experience, I have found that with 15% infill at .20mm, you need at least three top layers to get a good looking top surface. First layer looks crummy, second shows defects, and the third is where it all evens out. At lower layer heights, you need correspondingly more layers for it to look good, so try four for .15mm.

[Slipshine]

The bottom layers are not solid. If you just print the 2 bottom layers they look like a screen. I printed The top layers To better show what I am trying to fix. Is there a way to adjust the solid infill density.

[jimc]

The density if the bottom layers is controlled by your z height / bed gap.

[Slipshine]

I believe the bed gap to be about perfect. The finished part measures within .02mm of its actual z height.

My issue is that even the second layer should be extruding enough plastic to make the layer 100% filled.

what I am getting is less than that on both bottom and top solid infill layers.

Nice Screen

test2.jpg (53.25 KiB) Viewed 14281 times

It is like I need a different multiplier for the solid layers. The picture doesn't do this justice it is a perfect screen.
Nice to know it can do it if I need it too.

[Jules]

That the eSun peak green? I've had the same issue with it to a certain extent - I think it's just the way that color prints. It does not spread out much when it's laid down and it quickly cools into rods.
I use a higher (218C) extruder temp, bring the bed in a little closer using the Z-offset so the first layer gets a little smashed, increase the number of top and bottom layers (at least 3 each), and, although I haven't tried it yet, there is a place in the Infill tab that lets you increase the Infill Width percentage. I've generally gotten a much better result with a 0.4 mm wall thickness over 0.50 mm. (Don't know why, but the thicker extrusion widths tend to be worse.) There is always a discernable pattern visible with that particular filament, and the flat surfaces remain porous, with tiny pinholes, unless you smash that first layer. It looks just fine on the perimeters though.

Slowing down the speeds helps a bunch with that one too.

[jimc]

It can take 10 layers or so to correct a bed gap that isnt right. If the first doesn't go down right dont expect that to be corrected in layer 2. You also cant really set the bed gap by measuring overall printed height of the model. The bed gap is too fine an adjusent. more than .05 from dead nuts in the money is too much.