Part Pulled Chip Out of Glass
Re: Part Pulled Chip Out of Glass
Round, flat, with no corners to get under...that one would be a bit problematic!
Re: Part Pulled Chip Out of Glass
Any estimate on how many re-uses of the Kapton you get before you have to replace? (Not counting intentional holes. 
)
I've been having good success with *almost* bare glass -- just the lightest leftover film residue from glue stick (used a zillion times, then rinsed off with a finger rub.) You can barely even tell there's anything on the glass before printing -- then there's a telltale grey outline from the residue after.
It worked wonderfully for me -- until it didn't.
MakerGear support described this problem as "very rare," which I believe [I'd never heard of it before spelunking through this forum], and said their suggested process is using Kapton tape.
Glass is flipped over for now, about to try my hand at thin, 2" tape application....
)I've been having good success with *almost* bare glass -- just the lightest leftover film residue from glue stick (used a zillion times, then rinsed off with a finger rub.) You can barely even tell there's anything on the glass before printing -- then there's a telltale grey outline from the residue after.
It worked wonderfully for me -- until it didn't.
MakerGear support described this problem as "very rare," which I believe [I'd never heard of it before spelunking through this forum], and said their suggested process is using Kapton tape.
Glass is flipped over for now, about to try my hand at thin, 2" tape application....
-Vprints
Changing my world, one print at a time
Changing my world, one print at a time
Re: Part Pulled Chip Out of Glass
Can't say......i haven't been using it long enough for it to wear out yet. (I'm still using the one with the divot in it, i just place the objects elsewhere.) 
I think i saw where someone else on the forum was getting a good year out of the thicker (4mil) kind before having to replace.
The full sheet kind is going to last a lot longer than the thinner kind, because those edges give a weak point for the tape to pull up with your print. (They might leave little ridges in your print too, if it overlaps the edges.)
I think i saw where someone else on the forum was getting a good year out of the thicker (4mil) kind before having to replace.The full sheet kind is going to last a lot longer than the thinner kind, because those edges give a weak point for the tape to pull up with your print. (They might leave little ridges in your print too, if it overlaps the edges.)
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pyronaught
- Posts: 684
- Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2014 8:24 pm
Re: Part Pulled Chip Out of Glass
The sheets are definitely worth the money over using multiple rows of tape. You will get lines on your parts from the tape seams, and the tape is a much bigger pain to apply. If you use the thin sheets you'll have to use the water trick for applying it, but the thick stuff goes on pretty easy without water. You'll still get a few bubbles, but they disappear after a few days.
I never had luck with doing multiple parts on a single glue stick coating, I always had to recoat for each new print otherwise it wouldn't stick. Same with ABS slurry. I think I tried watered down emlers glue one time too but it didn't work so it must be a different formula than what gluesticks are made from. I think the main risk of pulling glass chunks out with glue stick is if you let the plate cool 100% such that the part pops off by itself. If you knock the part off while the plate is still hot by wacking it sideways with a blunt tool then you don't have that perpendicular force pulling on the glass the way you do when the part pulls itself off through contraction. But then you have to be there when the print finishes, which is a problem if you print things overnight or just don't happen to be around during the day when a print finishes. It's just not worth the risk when there are easier methods that work better than gluestick anyway.
I never had luck with doing multiple parts on a single glue stick coating, I always had to recoat for each new print otherwise it wouldn't stick. Same with ABS slurry. I think I tried watered down emlers glue one time too but it didn't work so it must be a different formula than what gluesticks are made from. I think the main risk of pulling glass chunks out with glue stick is if you let the plate cool 100% such that the part pops off by itself. If you knock the part off while the plate is still hot by wacking it sideways with a blunt tool then you don't have that perpendicular force pulling on the glass the way you do when the part pulls itself off through contraction. But then you have to be there when the print finishes, which is a problem if you print things overnight or just don't happen to be around during the day when a print finishes. It's just not worth the risk when there are easier methods that work better than gluestick anyway.
Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted.