Part Pulled Chip Out of Glass

[insta]

ABS prints take off about half of however much ABS juice is left. If your starting application puts down "100 units" of sticky, the first print will aggressively fight you to remove and 50 units will stick to the base of the part. The next print will pop off easily and take the next 25 with it. The next four parts will work wonderfully, and then it starts to curl again. You can just reapply over what's there -- since the ABS juice is a solvent it will redistribute the residue on the bed. Don't apply it over 50C bed temps.

The "takes half the sticky" part is useful. If you have to print a starfish or cube with sharp corners, print that right after treating the bed. The rounded-corner flat plaques can be printed when the build surface is less tacky.

[pyronaught]

I'll have to give it a try. If it holds as well as glue stick then it sounds like it would be less work between prints and then the glass chipping problem goes away.

Is there any ideal ratio for parts ABS + acetone for the slurry or do you just mix it to a certain consistency by feel?

[insta]

I use about 10x 4" sticks of 1.75 ABS in a 4oz bottle of acetone for my slurry. It's enough to tint the acetone a dark color but not enough to have soupy chunks throughout. Shake it before application.

Application instructions:
* start bed preheating
* shake container for a few seconds to stir everything up
* pour a 4" puddle in the middle of your bed, bed must not be above 50C or it will evaporate too quickly!
* push around with a paper towel to all corners of the bed (on Kapton) in a swirly figure-8 pattern until the acetone evaporates enough to feel somewhat sandy under the paper towel
* let the remainder evaporate off

[pyronaught]

I'm guessing you probably want to use the clear type ABS for the slurry so that it doesn't interfere with the color of the contact surface of the part right?

[insta]

I suppose, or have multiple bottles of color. I never really cared that much, the layer is really thin and not overly bright. Black juice on a white part would probably look kinda nasty though.

[pyronaught]

Is there a trick to getting kapton tape to go on absolutely bubble free? I can never manage to get every last bubble out, especially the tiny ones. I work from the center to the edges and can do it without wrinkles or large bubbles, but these tiny ones sneak in somehow.

[insta]

Apply the tape with soapy water, make sure the entire tape strip is soaked underneath.

Squeegee the soapy water out with successively higher pressure with a wide razor blade. You have to end up pressing reasonably firmly, but build up pressure successively or you'll tear the tape. After that, give it about an hour to dry, then put it on your heatbed at 80C for another hour or so. If a haze of small bubbles forms, remove and reapply the tape with firmer squeegeeing . Kapton (polyamide) is very water-permeable and it will dry quickly when heated.

[pyronaught]

Wow, I would have never thought up that technique. I guess that is similar to how the protective films are applied to cell phone screens.

[jimc]

Yes, same as vinyl lettering on cars and signs and also window tint. Alot if adhesive products are applied like that

[pyronaught]

I was wondering how people were applying those 8x10 one piece sheets of kapton that cover the whole bed without getting bubbles. Without the water trick that would be a nightmare.