First print-- issues with tallthin.g from the SD card...

[minusbacon]

I just slowed printing down majorly. Based on the color codes in S3D, it's printing at around 3.8mm/s. The first layer circles were where it always messed up on this object. So far so good. But it hasn't completed the first layer yet.

I shouldn't have to slow things down his much, should I? The creator of this on Thingiverse recommended these settings...

Print Settings:
PLA
50 mm/s perimeters
70 mm/s infill
100% infill
.2 mm layer height

I have it set to < 30mm/s, 30% infill, and .2mm layer height.

That is for regular printing. First layers are often slowed down to give the filament thread time to stick to the adhesive. But 3.8mm/sec is ridiculously slow.

You might want to experiment with that and vary the speeds while increasing your adhesive thickness until you get to a point where everything sticks, but you aren't limited to a snail's pace.

There are speed and underspend settings all over the place in process settings. Where is the 'main baseline' speed setting in S3D? What is a good baseline to set it at then tweak from there?

Any chance you could please give a short rundown of what the different speed and underspend settings do in the various process setting tabs, and when playing with which setting is a good idea? I have no idea which I'm supposed to change for what. There are speed settings in the layer tab, cooling tab, and other tab. Then there are the underspend settings which I messed with a bit. I never saw any actual difference in print speed until I set the underspeeds to 80-90%, What are good default, underspend, and axis non-printing movement speeds? S3D M2 defaults or no?

I'm still not understanding why I can only get good adhesion when printing the first layer super super slow.

Also, now that I'm using glue, what are good rules to go by with it? Reapply every X prints? Reapply over the old glue or completely clean the glass first? Does the glue effect the z offset settings? Should I redo the z offset calibration with a fresh layer of glue or are the numbers I found on clean glass ok?

[jsc]

Here's an overview of all of Simplify3D, this link will take you to the section on speeds: http://jinschoi.github.io/simplify3d-docs/#other-tab

You should be able to get good adhesion at 40 mm/s, which is what I use (50% speed on first layer off an 80 mm/s base speed) for PLA.

When you say it's "drawing a line through the glue", do you mean you're getting a paper thin smear? If that is the case, you're printing way too close. You can use the calibration cube to determine your first layer setting by measuring it with calipers and using the result to add or subtract from the g-code z offset without having to fiddle with the calibration screw.

In Simplify3D, go to File, Save Factory File. Zip up that factory file (so that the board will accept it as an attachment) and attach it here, so we can take a look at your settings.

[minusbacon]

Here's an overview of all of Simplify3D, this link will take you to the section on speeds: http://jinschoi.github.io/simplify3d-docs/#other-tab

You should be able to get good adhesion at 40 mm/s, which is what I use (50% speed on first layer off an 80 mm/s base speed) for PLA.

When you say it's "drawing a line through the glue", do you mean you're getting a paper thin smear? If that is the case, you're printing way too close. You can use the calibration cube to determine your first layer setting by measuring it with calipers and using the result to add or subtract from the g-code z offset without having to fiddle with the calibration screw.

In Simplify3D, go to File, Save Factory File. Zip up that factory file (so that the board will accept it as an attachment) and attach it here, so we can take a look at your settings.

The line in the glue was a one time thing. No clue why it happened. I ran through all the calibration settings last night and things are good. Not sure why that one print wasn't extruding.

So, in process settings > other, you set default printing speed to 40mm/s and leave everything else defaults?

What's the rule on cleaning the bed and/or reapplying glue? Since using the glue, when I pull a print off the bed there's a white outline of where the print was sitting. Do I clean that? Reapply glue? Leave it be for a couple prints?

[jsc]

In Other, set default printing speed to 80 mm/s (4800 mm/min). Under Layer, set first layer speed to 50%. That will give you a first layer speed of 40 mm/s.

With glue stick, since it's so easy to apply, I just keep slathering it on every print because I don't like to gamble, but it's good for a few prints. Clean it off when it gets too disgusting for your liking. Washes off with water.

[minusbacon]

Since I've finally had some successful fully completed prints-- I've noticed the bottom layer thats its on the bed has a basically perfect finish due to it sitting flat on the headed bed for the whole print. Top layer though doesn't look very good. The number of top layers doesn't seem to make a difference either. I see a lot of pics on Thingiverse where parts look pretty smooth from all angles.

I know parts can be sanded and cleaned up but some of the parts I've seen are small for finishing and it wouldn't make much since that someone spend the time finishing certain parts. Are there any setting tweaks to get the top layer(s) looking more smooth/finished?

[minusbacon]

In Other, set default printing speed to 80 mm/s (4800 mm/min). Under Layer, set first layer speed to 50%. That will give you a first layer speed of 40 mm/s.

With glue stick, since it's so easy to apply, I just keep slathering it on every print because I don't like to gamble, but it's good for a few prints. Clean it off when it gets too disgusting for your liking. Washes off with water.

Due to how touchy these things are about nozzle/bed measurements, I would think that having layers on layers of gluestick on the bed could/would mess with printing.

[jsc]

Meh. It would take quite a bit to make a difference, and I'd probably get disgusted with it before then.

Let's see how your top layers look! Take a picture.

[minusbacon]

Meh. It would take quite a bit to make a difference, and I'd probably get disgusted with it before then.

Let's see how your top layers look! Take a picture.

IMG_2426.JPG (147.5 KiB) Viewed 11540 times

Bottom layer for reference.

IMG_2427.JPG (98.34 KiB) Viewed 11540 times

Top layer. It's not bad or anything. Just not as smooth and clean as the bottom layer. Would be nice if there's a way to smooth the last few layers out when it's printing. Slower speed maybe? Or is finishing (sanding, filling in gaps) after printing the only way?

IMG_2428.JPG (194.66 KiB) Viewed 11540 times

What are those lighter lines in this print? I see it happen from time to time at random. It happens when the nozzle is moving while not extruding. I'm guessing it's the nozzle touching the part while it's moving? It doesn't happen often and I just went through leveling and setting z offset. So if all that is set properly, why would the nozzle be able to contact filament it just laid down?

[jsc]

That's just what the top of a 3D printed object looks like. Sorry. There are numerous threads around in the printed objects forum, usually by jimc, of some gorgeous finish work. Sanding doesn't really do a whole lot for raw PLA; the two best things I've tried so far is high build automotive primer, then sanding (for looks), or XTC-3D, a thin two part epoxy by Smooth-On intended for 3D printing (for a sturdier finish).

If you print a small part in ABS, you can smooth the whole thing over with a brief wash of acetone, or immersion in acetone vapor (may be hazardous to your health): https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/m ... rlfqyhsPIJ It tends to give everything a slightly melted look.

Have you done an extrusion calibration? You may be over extruding slightly, leaving the surface just high enough to leave tracks through it when moving. A quick fix, though, is to add a small amount, .10-.20mm, to Retraction Vertical Lift under the Extruder tab, which will raise the extruder for travel moves.

[minusbacon]

That's just what the top of a 3D printed object looks like. Sorry. There are numerous threads around in the printed objects forum, usually by jimc, of some gorgeous finish work. Sanding doesn't really do a whole lot for raw PLA; the two best things I've tried so far is high build automotive primer, then sanding (for looks), or XTC-3D, a thin two part epoxy by Smooth-On intended for 3D printing (for a sturdier finish).

If you print a small part in PLA, you can smooth the whole thing over with a brief wash of acetone, or immersion in acetone vapor (may be hazardous to your health): https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/m ... rlfqyhsPIJ It tends to give everything a slightly melted look.

Have you done an extrusion calibration? You may be over extruding slightly, leaving the surface just high enough to leave tracks through it when moving. A quick fix, though, is to add a small amount, .10-.20mm, to Retraction Vertical Lift under the Extruder tab, which will raise the extruder for travel moves.

Yep. I redid the z stop. bed leveling, and did the extrusion calibration and z offset when I change to a blue spool of PLA. Z offset is perfect-- test cube is exactly 2mm tall when printed. Extruder multiplier is the best I can get it-- when I measure all 4 sides of the cube, 3 are .40 and one is .41.

Is there a way to have S3D slow down the last layer of printing to as slow as it prints the first layer? I'm curious to see if it will make a difference.

I figured it was just how things are gonna print but I had to ask. For retraction vertical lift-- is there a test I can do to test that setting after changing it or is it more of a guess?