I have a question...
I'm using PLA, bed 60c, V3b hotend 215c I'm getting good adhesion, except for one side of the print bed.
The Y (0/home) end of the bed... bed's leveled.
Ran a print, minor curling on side a of object, flipped the object 180* Z axis in S3d, now the opposite side b is curling, and side a is fine?
I use hairspray on glass, the plastic sticks like glue... but for whatever reason that one side of the bed warps, any ideas?
Warping...
Re: Warping...
It's not level enough? Check visually: bring the bed up almost to the nozzle and hold it steady with one hand. Use the other to move the extruder and bed back and forth, noting the gap between the bed and the nozzle. If you see it growing towards one side, that side is low.
You will generally see that the center is higher than the edges, but you should try to arrange things so that any curve is symmetric around the middle.
You will generally see that the center is higher than the edges, but you should try to arrange things so that any curve is symmetric around the middle.
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willnewton
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Re: Warping...
Your glass bed could have a slight warp in it. It is not uncommon, but generally only shows on a large print or something that spans the bed. My glass is a teensy bit higher in the center.
If you are using S3D, you can compensate a bit by raising the Z height under the GCode tab in .05 increments to get a bit more squish.
I use blue tape for bed adhesion and have found placing an extra piece a few square inches in size under the tricky spot is usually enough to correct adhesion issues and has little effect on the finished print.
I have also given the Z-knob a "one click" twist as it prints over adhesion problem areas. It is a bit silly seeming, but sometimes you need a print finished more than you need to spend a long time diagnosing a .05mm error. Whatever works!
If you are using S3D, you can compensate a bit by raising the Z height under the GCode tab in .05 increments to get a bit more squish.
I use blue tape for bed adhesion and have found placing an extra piece a few square inches in size under the tricky spot is usually enough to correct adhesion issues and has little effect on the finished print.
I have also given the Z-knob a "one click" twist as it prints over adhesion problem areas. It is a bit silly seeming, but sometimes you need a print finished more than you need to spend a long time diagnosing a .05mm error. Whatever works!
I'm finally back to where I started two days ago!
A thread with some stuff in it I update every once in a while. viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9
See some of my stuff http://www.thingiverse.com/willnewton/favorites
A thread with some stuff in it I update every once in a while. viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9
See some of my stuff http://www.thingiverse.com/willnewton/favorites
Re: Warping...
Uneven cooling? Fan not hitting the warping side of the bed as much? Air flow blocked by the print?
(It might not be a leveling problem with PLA.)
Try lowering the nozzle temp to 205° for PLA. It needs to cool off quickly to keep from warping, and the higher the temp you use to lay it down, the slower it cools off. If the fan is also missing a spot, or the air flow is weaker there, you can have that regional warping happen. Lowering the bed temp by about 5 to 10 degrees might also help, and it should still stick just fine. (i used 40C on bare glass with hairspray and it stuck like a demon)
(It might not be a leveling problem with PLA.)
Try lowering the nozzle temp to 205° for PLA. It needs to cool off quickly to keep from warping, and the higher the temp you use to lay it down, the slower it cools off. If the fan is also missing a spot, or the air flow is weaker there, you can have that regional warping happen. Lowering the bed temp by about 5 to 10 degrees might also help, and it should still stick just fine. (i used 40C on bare glass with hairspray and it stuck like a demon)