Semiflex (same makers as Ninjaflex)

[LonV]

I had been playing with Ninjaflex for a bit and results were spotty. Most of the time it would get wrapped around the extruder gear. After I learned retraction was it's enemy I got some successful prints, but they weren't ever clean and it would still usually end up wrapped around the extruder gear.

I bought some Semiflex. I'm using the basic PLA profile, but adjusting the Extrusion multiplier to 1.0, the retraction distance up to 1.5mm, the speed down to 1800/mm/min, and the temp at 205 (I have an E3Dv6). I've printed 3 objects and all of them have come out perfectly. No jamming and not too much stringing (if at all).

Just figured I'd share my results. Here are some pics:

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[jereywolf]

Very cool! Thanks for sharing. I have a roll waiting to be printed.

[insta]

Mind posting those in my "filaments that work on the M2" thread?

[sthone]

Wow that looks awesome.... this gives me hope. I tried printing some tank style tracks last weekend in a flexible filament but it kept clogging and it wrapped up once on the gear after four or five goes I gave up. I was guess guessing at the setting though least now I have a starting point. When you say "retraction was it's enemy" does that mean flex stuff needs more or less? I was getting globs so I figured it needed more but I could be wrong.

-Steve

[jimc]

ninjaflex and retraction dont mix well. i have found that just a small amount is necessary just to keep the pressure to a minimum before a travel move but the coast function works wonders. since the hot end really holds pressure with the rubber type filaments you can turn the coast up a bit to help relieve most of it then just maybe a .6mm retract to let off some psi and it keeps the blobs down. steve, i know your not running an e3d but for lon, if i havent given you my profile ill be glad to share. i dont have any feeding issues with the stuff as long as i keep my speed low.

as for the semiflex, how flexible is the stuff? is it alot stiffer than ninjaflex? ninjaflex is soft when its thin but if you print something thicker and solid its about as hard as car tire rubber. can you compare the semiflex to anything?

[LonV]

I printed two iPhone cases for my friend's kids and one was in Ninjaflex and one was in Semiflex. It was really hard to tell the difference between the two, but I wasn't really doing a scientific comparison. They both flexed about the same. I agree that when it's solid, it's probably has hard as car tire rubber (maybe a little less so).

If you want, I can print something and send it to you.

-Lon

[jimc]

you dont have to go to all that trouble lon. thanks for the off and the info though. i will probably just order a roll to do some testing with.

[Slipshine]

Has anyone done any more testing with the semi flex? I have used the ninja flex and it is to flexible for what I want.

I print some cell phone cases from time to time and want something that is rubbery but closer to rigid.
Does this meet that criteria.

Are there any other flexibles that are any good.

Thanks.

[jsc]

I printed an iPhone case in PETG. It's flexible enough that it goes on easily and stays snug. I'm not convinced ninja/semi-flex will do much for impact protection, but I'm not going to be running any tests.

I did consider printing a negative mold and using RTV silicone to make the case, but OpenSCAD threw an error when I tried to difference the STL and I don't know how else to do it.

[willnewton]

Been testing Semiflex. Wow, pretty cool stuff. Takes detail very well and it is tough as nails. Can go from hard as a Lego tire to soft and squeezy depending on how thick the walls and infill are. Think of tough things that can yield just a bit or twist like rubberized guards, bumpers, furniture feet, a rubberized tool handle, a cable tie, and the feet on your M2.

I printed these using Ninjaflex settings and it did great. I will add some retraction back in, this should handle it fine. Prints almost as well as PLA, but slower. I think I will try printing with a modified PLA setting next rather than the Ninjaflex settings, the same way LonV did.

Picture one is the test block file.

• •I printed this at a few settings to see how it did, then cut it in half with an Xacto to check the inside. I printed at .20 and .25 layer heights and it did fine at 250ºC. I used blue tape on the bed. This stuff can actually warp and printed best with no fan at all. I did print a bit on glass and it looks fantastic and glossy, but had some corners lift, but I may have had the fan on. I do not recommend supports. They are hard to remove.

Picture two shows the actual prints.

• •On the top left there is a part with 45º overhangs. It printed fine without support.
  •On the top right are various thickness 10mm high x 40mm long with a 5mm hole in one end. The 1mm wall printed great. It would be near impossible to tear this in half with your hands. They can all be bent 180º and will flex back with no apparent damage. The stringing is from bad retraction settings, printing these too close together, and an attempt at using supports.
  •Block 1- 0% fill with a single wall. I should have had 4 top layers rather than 2 and it would have done better. A bit soft for bridging, but it will get there with enough layers. Squishes, but readily springs back to shape. I cannot tear or delaminate this by hand, but it is deformable.
  •Block 2- 10% fill with two wallls. OK, this got strong quick! Very resilient, hard but yielding, like a racquetball. Getting hard to cut in half!
  •Block 3- 30% fill and 4 walls. You can twist this a bit, but you can only just barely compress it. VERY difficult to cut open with an exacto. You see that sliver I cut on top piece with a knife? I cannot tear it the rest of the way by hand.

-update-settings file is on the next page a few posts down.