Wow, this is a nice damn printer!

[Vandal968]

Finally got my M2 kit today a few weeks after ordering. A couple of weeks waiting was a couple of weeks of wondering if I should have gotten something else (tempted by Ultimaker).

I've done a lot with 3d Printers over the years, built a Mendel (garbage), built a Makerbot Cupcake clone of my own design with a bunch of improvements (Fakerbot), scratch-built a Rostock Max, used and maintained a literal army of Makerbots (about 20 of various models, mostly Rep2's (decent) and Gen5's (utter garbage)) while working at Local Motors on the team that built the worlds first 3d Printed car. So, lots of 3D printing background.

Right off the bat, I was amazed at how complete the "kit" was. I thought that they might have sent me a complete printer by mistake, many of the steps in the directions were already complete. The machine is extremely sturdy & well designed (I'm a mechanical engineer by trade). Assembly was about 5 hours start to finish while watching Terminator & Terminator 2 in the background. Most of the truly horrible things that you have to do with other kits like soldering wiring harnesses are not only done, they're done VERY well, with all connector ends labeled.

This machine is FAR better than any consumer model I've used before.

The only improvements I would suggest are:
1. The screw for the Z-home switch is a little fiddly. A system that didn't require the jamb-nut would be an improvement.
2. Instructions: several errors, the pictures are often inconsistent with the text or don't show a part at the best angle to illustrate a concept. The pics for the rubber parts on the spider and the extruder mount are especially bad.
3. Quite a bit of extra hardware included. No complaints for free stuff, but you could probably save a buck or two if this was examined more closely.
4. Switch to keyed electrical connectors where possible to eliminate possibility of plugging things in backwards.

Anyway, just wanted to say WOW. GREAT JOB, this is one helluva nice machine.

cheers,
c

[Bratag]

Welcome to the M2 family and the forums. Wait until you start getting some prints from it and you will see just how nice this machine is and how much that solid construction helps. I love being able to (after adjusting for shrinkage of material etc) specify I want a 3mm legnth/hole/whatever and know that it will come out 3mm.

[Dale Reed]

4. Switch to keyed electrical connectors where possible to eliminate possibility of plugging things in backwards.

I agree with that item, but I don't fault MakerGear. I'm fairly certain the Rambo board is a direct purchase from third party who supplies many printer vendors. Personally, I would LOVE keyed connectors for anything where orientation matters (mainly the steppers and limit switches), but, in keeping with the cost point, I don't expect MakerGear to source a customized Rambo board, nor do I expect them to unsolder connectors and replace. So this comment is best directed at the supplier of the board (which is used by many, not just MG).

I'd also like to see a better (more robust) power connector, or, if the Phoenix connector is required, make some room either side and use the ones that have screw-down ears. ("DeviceNet" devices use a five-position connector with screw-down ears for industrial stuff.) An easy improvement that would have saved several M2 owners back in the 12V/19V days some burned up connectors and pins.

Mostly, you've echoed exactly why I bought my M2. (That, and I live a few miles away from MG HQ, and they let me come over to the shop and check them out before buying. GREAT people AND a great product!) I count myself especially fortunate that I picked it for my first 3D printer.
Dale

[insta]

It's actually not hugely unreasonable to do ... the RAMBo already has keyed sockets, it's just using different Molex plugs. The same pins will work, it's just a different series housing.

Based on how MakerGear and I seem to operate, I fully expect them to carry keyed plugs on the harness about a week after I've upgraded every wiring harness I have

[jsc]

Regarding the Z end stop screw: I think they said they're going to be switching to a Z max stop (switch at the bottom)? I wasn't paying attention.... With the current system, you can make it a tiny bit less fiddly by putting the jam nut on the bottom of the bed, and printing this wrench: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53870. Once you have it adjusted very roughly to the right ballpark, at least to where the nozzle doesn't hit the bed when zeroed, you can use a slicer G-code offset to dial it in the rest of the way.

[dsharp02]

Actually all they need is to dump the jam nut, and use a spring to take the slop out. The tension would induce enough friction to prevent it from vibrating out of position, but it would still be easy to change.

Dave

[lem]

Based on how MakerGear and I seem to operate, I fully expect them to carry keyed plugs on the harness about a week after I've upgraded every wiring harness I have

insta, go ahead and upgrade your systems - I haven't ordered yet and would like to get the "keyed" connectors.

[insta]

Based on how MakerGear and I seem to operate, I fully expect them to carry keyed plugs on the harness about a week after I've upgraded every wiring harness I have

insta, go ahead and upgrade your systems - I haven't ordered yet and would like to get the "keyed" connectors.

They just did it to me with the now-metal-enclosed power supplies.

[insta]

Actually all they need is to dump the jam nut, and use a spring to take the slop out. The tension would induce enough friction to prevent it from vibrating out of position, but it would still be easy to change.

Dave

Jam nut is way more secure. It's a non-issue with it under the Z axis instead of on-top, and an even bigger non-issue with Z-max homing.