How to get S3D to draw the thin parts?

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swbluto
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How to get S3D to draw the thin parts?

Post by swbluto » Sun Aug 02, 2015 3:43 am

I have a model that prints fine at it's native size (About 4 inches), and S3D is showing a single line for the thin part, but when I shrink the model down to 3 inches, the model view shows that the thin part is still there albeit smaller, but the slicer preview shows nothing there and when I printed it, it didn't print the thin part out! How do I force S3D to at least print one line where there's a thin part? (Preferably double, but I'm willing to compromise.)

Slic3r appears to be slicing the 3 inch model just fine. A single line right where it's supposed to be.

swbluto
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Re: How to get S3D to draw the thin parts?

Post by swbluto » Sun Aug 02, 2015 4:06 am

So, I tried lowering the extrusion width from .38mm to .35mm and the line is showing up in the slicer preview window. Would increasing the extrusion multiplier adequately compensate for the reduction in extrusion width to get the thin part to print? (Ideally, I wouldn't need these kinds of adjustments.)

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jimc
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Re: How to get S3D to draw the thin parts?

Post by jimc » Sun Aug 02, 2015 4:07 am

you need to lower the extrusion width setting however you really shouldnt lower it below the width of the nozzle. this has been a big debate for a long time. s3d prints the part accurately and true to the model. if your printer cant print that because its too small, s3d knows and wont print it. slic3r and some others will print it anyway even though in the end your print will be out of spec to the model. thats fine for some prints like a sculpture but not fine for maybe a mechanical part that needs accuracy.

swbluto
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Re: How to get S3D to draw the thin parts?

Post by swbluto » Sun Aug 02, 2015 6:22 am

So, can I force S3D to print it anyway? I'm having a bit of trouble getting ABS to stick to the glass bed with Slic3r for some unknown reason and I don't want to exclusively depend on software that may or may not always work.

swbluto
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Re: How to get S3D to draw the thin parts?

Post by swbluto » Sun Aug 02, 2015 8:19 am

Well, got Slic3r to stick but... I immediately remembered why I bought S3D after seeing the results, lol. No comparison. :lol:

I resolved if S3D can't do the small sizes, then don't do it. If S3D can't do it at all, use Cura. The surface finish isn't nearly as good, but it's far better on the details than Slic3r. I've heard good things about KissSlicer's quality, might try that as an S3D 'backup'.

Anyway I changed from (1.00 multiplier .38 width) to (1.1 multiplier .35 width). Did the calculator calculations (multiplier*width) and they're roughly the same, so I'll see if this arrangement works out. I'm starting to see the benefits of a .35mm nozzle now, can do details that a .4mm nozzle can't (At least not through S3D, although I do wonder if you /could/ go just below the nozzle's actual width given the right multiplier. ).

Kulturfolger
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Re: How to get S3D to draw the thin parts?

Post by Kulturfolger » Sun Aug 02, 2015 9:01 am

swbluto wrote:So, can I force S3D to print it anyway? I'm having a bit of trouble getting ABS to stick to the glass bed with Slic3r for some unknown reason and I don't want to exclusively depend on software that may or may not always work.
Did you try to print thin parts with a raft?
Feel free to correct my mistakes. English is not my native language.

Bratag
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Re: How to get S3D to draw the thin parts?

Post by Bratag » Sun Aug 02, 2015 9:24 am

swbluto wrote:Well, got Slic3r to stick but... I immediately remembered why I bought S3D after seeing the results, lol. No comparison. :lol:

I resolved if S3D can't do the small sizes, then don't do it. If S3D can't do it at all, use Cura. The surface finish isn't nearly as good, but it's far better on the details than Slic3r. I've heard good things about KissSlicer's quality, might try that as an S3D 'backup'.

Anyway I changed from (1.00 multiplier .38 width) to (1.1 multiplier .35 width). Did the calculator calculations (multiplier*width) and they're roughly the same, so I'll see if this arrangement works out. I'm starting to see the benefits of a .35mm nozzle now, can do details that a .4mm nozzle can't (At least not through S3D, although I do wonder if you /could/ go just below the nozzle's actual width given the right multiplier. ).
Ive done it - but as said above - its fine for say decorative pieces or sculpture - but for parts that need accuracy - better off getting yourself a smaller nozzle.

I keep a 35 and a 25 handy for just such occasions

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