WHAT CAUSES THIS!!??
Re: WHAT CAUSES THIS!!??
This is abs? What temp are you running the hot end at? Also is this a new roll of filament? Have you printed it before?
Re: WHAT CAUSES THIS!!??
I run ABS at 245°C. I have tried three different rolls. Even a brand new one.
Re: WHAT CAUSES THIS!!??
I had something similar happen last week. I didn't really have a lot of experience cleaning out hotends so I switched the entire hotend with a new one and the problem disappeared. I'll have to check it when I get some time but I'm assuming it had some kind of partial clog in there.
Re: WHAT CAUSES THIS!!??
Interesting...thanks for the input jdacal!
- Capt. John
- Posts: 271
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:48 pm
- Location: Manistee, MI
- Contact:
Re: WHAT CAUSES THIS!!??
Best way to clean a nozzle is thru dis-assembly and a long soak in Acetone.
Then, I used a fine bristle off a wire brush to push up from the small end.
Noticed the barrel was quite dirty and re-soaked it.
Barrel gets residue from past filaments that all have different melting temps.
In my case, PET+ (my favorite), ABS, and PLA have all at one time or another passed
thru the same hot end.
Seen concave drive gears on eBay, need the correct outside diameter and inside diameter too.
True Reprap printers use this kind of gear that I first seen in my "3D Printing for Dummies" book.
Still feel most of our clogs are from the size of the particulate in colorants used to colorize filaments
that can get cooked/caked and puts us thru the agony of clogged tips.
Retracting filament at the end of a print to lessen the possibility of cooking the filament on long
re-heats is something I just began.
Then, I used a fine bristle off a wire brush to push up from the small end.
Noticed the barrel was quite dirty and re-soaked it.
Barrel gets residue from past filaments that all have different melting temps.
In my case, PET+ (my favorite), ABS, and PLA have all at one time or another passed
thru the same hot end.
Seen concave drive gears on eBay, need the correct outside diameter and inside diameter too.
True Reprap printers use this kind of gear that I first seen in my "3D Printing for Dummies" book.
Still feel most of our clogs are from the size of the particulate in colorants used to colorize filaments
that can get cooked/caked and puts us thru the agony of clogged tips.
Retracting filament at the end of a print to lessen the possibility of cooking the filament on long
re-heats is something I just began.
Capt. John
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
Re: WHAT CAUSES THIS!!??
The last time I soaked my nozzle and barrel in acetone it was full of abs to start with, and the acetone just made it soft. There wasn't much I could do to get it out. DO you have a way of clearing the barrel before you put it in acetone?
I also looked into those drive gears. The MK8 seems to be the most recent design, but doesn't look like it will work with the current Makergear setup.
Have you ever tried the "cleaning" filament?
I also looked into those drive gears. The MK8 seems to be the most recent design, but doesn't look like it will work with the current Makergear setup.
Have you ever tried the "cleaning" filament?
Re: WHAT CAUSES THIS!!??
After disassembly, I took a propane torch to the brass parts until no more plastic dripped out. It works for the brass parts but the plastic groove mount is a pain if plastic sticks inside. I cleaned mine out with a Forster bit and a vice.
It's working again.
It's working again.
Re: WHAT CAUSES THIS!!??
Thanks! I've had 3 successful prints since I reset my tension. If it happens again, I'm getting the torch!