Part Pulled Chip Out of Glass

[pyronaught]

OK, I'm sold on the kapton + ABS slurry method. That had even stronger holding power than the glue stick, and you get a cleaner looking bottom surface, no risk of damaging the glass and setup time between prints is faster than glue stick. I used clear ABS sticks to make the slurry and it is invisible on both the plate and the part. I think I'll buy some of those one-piece kapton sheets to avoid getting the tape lines on my parts though:

http://www.amazon.com/Addicore-Kapton-P ... ape+sheets

[jimc]

that combo is the strongest bond of all for abs. when i was doing that the part would pull the kapton off the bed. i just got tired of messing with the tape and slurry. im impatient

[pyronaught]

I could see where a part that has a lot of contact area might be hard to get off the plate when its done. That's the only down side to this method is the part doesn't just pop off when it cools like the other methods do. For the part I just made I had to knock it loose by hitting it with a rounded metal object around the sides. For something like a 4" diameter gear or something like that with a big solid contact area I bet it would be really hard to get it loose.

[jimc]

for sure. i have a heavy duty 3" scraper i picked up at home depot then sharpened the edge. there were many time i had to use that and i think if it was a glass bed i would have broken it trying to get the print off. the catch 22 is that you need that method when you print big parts not little ones and the big parts you cant get off the bed.

[pyronaught]

I suppose you could print the big parts on a raft and then flood the raft with acetone to get it off the bed, or maybe a raft would not even get stuck due to the fill pattern not being solid. Of course then you waste a bunch of time and filament printing rafts, which is why I try and avoid using them. I think I'll just keep kapton on one side of my glass and flip back and forth between that and glass + glue stick as dictated by the geometry of the part.

[insta]

I suppose you could print the big parts on a raft and then flood the raft with acetone to get it off the bed, or maybe a raft would not even get stuck due to the fill pattern not being solid. Of course then you waste a bunch of time and filament printing rafts, which is why I try and avoid using them. I think I'll just keep kapton on one side of my glass and flip back and forth between that and glass + glue stick as dictated by the geometry of the part.

The flipping doesn't work as well as you might think, because the tape will deform in little areas over time (knicks on the bed, little bits of stuck filament, etc) and it prevents it from sitting flush when flipped. I'd suggest getting one of the clearance boro sheets from MG. I got a "chipped" one, the chip was about half the diameter of a BB along one edge of the glass. I had to look for quite awhile to find it ... worth the discount.

[pyronaught]

The flipping doesn't work as well as you might think, because the tape will deform in little areas over time (knicks on the bed, little bits of stuck filament, etc) and it prevents it from sitting flush when flipped. I'd suggest getting one of the clearance boro sheets from MG. I got a "chipped" one, the chip was about half the diameter of a BB along one edge of the glass. I had to look for quite awhile to find it ... worth the discount.

Good idea, I just went over there and bought one. Thanks for the tip.

[insta]

I could see where a part that has a lot of contact area might be hard to get off the plate when its done. That's the only down side to this method is the part doesn't just pop off when it cools like the other methods do. For the part I just made I had to knock it loose by hitting it with a rounded metal object around the sides. For something like a 4" diameter gear or something like that with a big solid contact area I bet it would be really hard to get it loose.

Get some of those electronics flush-cutters (http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micr ... sh+cutters), and nip the corners of the part right next to the glass. For gears, nip a single tooth. This will force that part of it off the bed and that usually starts a cascade which pops the whole piece off at once.

Also, your print was the first (or second) one. Subsequent prints will come off easier.

[pyronaught]

Get some of those electronics flush-cutters (http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micr ... sh+cutters), and nip the corners of the part right next to the glass. For gears, nip a single tooth. This will force that part of it off the bed and that usually starts a cascade which pops the whole piece off at once.

Also, your print was the first (or second) one. Subsequent prints will come off easier.

Seems like you could nick the tape pretty easily trying to clip the corners. I notice that tape gets dinged up pretty easily so I'm trying to avoid touching it at all. I'm going to try one of these spring loaded impulse punches to see if I can knock parts off with a sideways shockwave. I'll have to press fit a block pad on the end for larger contact area:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-5-Inch-Adju ... aded+punch

[jimc]

i have never gotten kapton to last more than one print. it always gets messed up in some way. mcmaster has sheets of it though that are really thick, like 25mil or something. alot of guys put it on the bed and it lasts for months. they say its super durable. i have never tried it.