Part Pulled Chip Out of Glass

[dklassen]

This tape lays down really nice. I didn't even take particular care when I did it. It had a few minor bubbles but the first time I heated up the bed they went away and it's been perfect since.

[pyronaught]

Mine was actually the 9x10 and I cut it down a little.

So the website says 8 x 10 in the title, then it says 8 x 9 in the product description, then what actually gets shipped is 9 x 10?

EDIT: I see, the 9x10 is a different product than the one you linked to. That's probably the way to go in order to avoid the uncertainty in size of the 8x10 sheets.

[dklassen]

Yep, you're correct, I should have put the other link. I changed it in my fist post to the correct one.

[pyronaught]

This tape lays down really nice. I didn't even take particular care when I did it. It had a few minor bubbles but the first time I heated up the bed they went away and it's been perfect since.

5 mil is .127mm, which something around the thickness of a sheet of paper, so I can see how that would go on easier with less tendency to wrinkle.

I bought some to try out, I'm hoping it isn't as frail as the 2mil sheets. I tore one of mine trying to squeegee water out with a metal straight edge

[dklassen]

This 5mil sheet is pretty tuff.. and stiff. I've abused it pretty good and it shows no sign of giving up. I didn't use water or anything but a credit card when I put it down.

[pyronaught]

I'd say that's a pretty good system you have there with the thicker film and the lower bed temp. Lowering the bed temp seems to be the key to getting the part off, and has the benefit of shorter warm up and cool down times too. I printed the part below on a virgin sheet with the bed set at 70c and was able to get it off without too much trouble. It didn't pop off on it's own like gluestick does, but I could knock it off the plate without having to pry at it. This is a part that warps when using hairspray, so it's a good warp test.

70c_test.jpg (522.35 KiB) Viewed 12285 times

[pyronaught]

This setup is definitely the way to go. I've done many prints now and still on my first sheet of 2 mil film with no damage to it yet and no prints getting stuck. Running the bed at 70 is the key to getting the parts off. I reapply a fresh coat of ABS juice for every print rather than trying to play guessing games with if there's enough left over from the previous print to hold the next print. It only takes a small amount and applying it is so much faster and easier than hair spray and glue stick that it only takes a few seconds.

BTW, if you need a HDPE bottle for holding your ABS juice and don't feel like ordering one off the internet you can go to the grocery store and look for those spiderman juice bottles in the soft drink isle (Wal-Mart has them). The bottle has one of those pull-stop caps so you can open and close it without worrying about losing a cap, and the whole thing is HDPE so the acetone won't melt any part of it.

[insta]

This setup is definitely the way to go. I've done many prints now and still on my first sheet of 2 mil film with no damage to it yet and no prints getting stuck. Running the bed at 70 is the key to getting the parts off. I reapply a fresh coat of ABS juice for every print rather than trying to play guessing games with if there's enough left over from the previous print to hold the next print. It only takes a small amount and applying it is so much faster and easier than hair spray and glue stick that it only takes a few seconds.

BTW, if you need a HDPE bottle for holding your ABS juice and don't feel like ordering one off the internet you can go to the grocery store and look for those spiderman juice bottles in the soft drink isle (Wal-Mart has them). The bottle has one of those pull-stop caps so you can open and close it without worrying about losing a cap, and the whole thing is HDPE so the acetone won't melt any part of it.

You can also buy an HDPE bottle of acetone at the dollar store, as nail polish remover. Get the dollar store version so there's no lotions or detergents.

[pyronaught]

Got my 5 mil kapton sheets today. Wow, that stuff IS tuff! Even pushing an Exacto blade through it to trim the edges took some effort. Goes on very easy too, no wrinkles or need for the water method. It's like a completely different material from the normal 2 mil kapton. If I was able to make the 2 mil sheets work without damage I should be able to get a sheet of this stuff to last all year

[dklassen]

Still on my first sheet after 5 months and it hardly even looks used. I print pretty much everyday.