Getting running in ABS as soon as I get my M2

[jimc]

x2. if your not set up for acetone vapor what you will want to do and assuming those are abs pipes and your going to use abs pipe glue to put them together...dont just glue the joint. coat the entire inside of the cap so it makes a nice abs liner when it dries. as bryan said print low with a wide extrusion width and just slightly over extruded.

[insta]

wait how do you know my name

[Mind]

OK, I went snorkeling with the thing. Not even 15ft, and the end caps leak. Even through areas that were acetone smoothed and are solid fill printed and 8mm thick!

So I drilled a hole in the tube, let the water out and filled it with polyurethane expanding foam. Hopefully that keeps the water out and provides the design buoyancy

While being pressurized with the foam, the end caps spewed water/bubbles/etc out of all sorts of places. VERY strange, but I guess the lesson is: 100% fill is NOT solid material (there are micro-channels etc).

[jimc]

yes it can be difficult to get a watertight print. a little over extrusion helps but still no guarantee

[Matt_Sharkey]

you cant change the fact that we are effectively printing little spaghetti strings all over the place. My impression is that 15ft of water-tight is impressive for a 3d print.

Could your 3d print be used as a model for homemade injection molding? (wait, is homemade injection molding a thing?)

[jsc]

Some sort of sealer, perhaps? I've been playing around with XTC-3D epoxy, but for functional use almost any thin two part epoxy might work.

[rsilvers]

eSun PETG is even better for underwater than ABS.

That is why they make water bottles from it.

[Vprints]

(wait, is homemade injection molding a thing?)

Yes. http://gingerybookstore.com/InjectionMo ... hment.html

(I have some of the Gingery books, oft-perused though I haven't had the opportunity/space to implement yet. But having a 3D printer to make parts from PLA for investment casting should make it pretty nice when I finally do )